In the Water

A list of injuries I have sustained while surfing:

• concussion
• black eye
• absolutely enormous bruise on my inner thigh, from my enormous center fin (unclear how this happened)
• wax under my fingernails, resulting in detachment
• many, many other bruises and cuts
  

But it still comforts me. I'm not very good (or any good at all), but surfing is the one thing I do where I don't care if I'm any good or not. I do it because it makes me happy. We live up the hill from the ocean. Sometimes when it's foggy and overcast here, we'll drive down to the beach and it'll be sunny. Of course, it happens the other way around too. Today it's hazy up here. It's supposed to rain again. They say it's an El Nino year. During El Nino, the water is supposed to be warmer, but so far, it's not.